America's Test Kitchen Tamales With Red Chicken Chili Recipe: Layered Spice and Smoky Depth

This America's Test Kitchen tamales recipe transforms humble masa dough into a textured masterpiece—steamed to perfection with a hearty red chicken chili filling that balances smoky, spicy, and savory notes. 🔥 The secret lies in the dough's tender yet sturdy structure, achieved through precise masa preparation and careful folding techniques that ensure every bite delivers both crust and filling in harmony.

What sets these tamales apart is the red chicken chili—a layered blend of dried ancho and guajillo chilies, cumin, and oregano that infuses the chicken with deep, earthy warmth.

We'll guide you through authentic methods, from grinding your own masa harina to steaming the tamales in banana leaves for that restaurant-quality aroma. No shortcuts here, just time-tested techniques that deliver professional results at home.

The final product is a showstopping dish—golden-brown tamales with crisp edges and a moist interior, each bite revealing tender chicken, chunky tomatoes, and a sauce that clings perfectly to the masa.

The aroma alone will have everyone gathering around the table, while the combination of textures and flavors makes this a weekend-worthy project that feels like a celebration.

Whether you're preparing for a family gathering or simply craving a taste of tradition, these tamales bring authentic Mexican comfort to your kitchen. The recipe includes adjustments for dietary preferences, ensuring everyone at the table can enjoy the experience.

Let's get started on creating a dish that's as rewarding to make as it is to eat.

Ingredients for america's test kitchen tamales with red chicken chili

Authentic masa dough meets smoky red chili—these ingredients deliver restaurant-quality tamales with perfect texture and depth.

The chilies are non-negotiable for authentic flavor. MexGrocer or H-E-B carry the best dried ancho and guajillo blends—look for vibrant color and no stems. Toast them lightly in a dry skillet before soaking to deepen their smoky notes. For the masa harina, Bob's Red Mill is my go-to, but Maseca works just as well. The chicken thighs should have good fat coverage—bone-in, skin-on ensures juicy results. Trim excess fat but leave some for flavor. If you can't find banana leaves, heavy-duty foil works in a pinch, though the aroma won't be quite the same.

No ancho chilies? Pasilla chilies at half the amount add a similar depth, though the color will differ. Short on cumin? Mexican oregano alone can carry the dish, but the cumin's earthy warmth is essential. For the masa dough, lard is traditional, but vegetable shortening works perfectly for a vegetarian version. The chicken broth should be low-sodium—Homemade is ideal, but store-bought works if you rinse the can first. If your tomatoes are tough, blanch them first to remove skins. And for the garlic? Toast the cloves first—it makes all the difference in the chili's complexity.

Store the dried chilies in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months—they lose potency quickly once opened. The masa dough can be prepped 1 day ahead and stored wrapped in plastic. For the chili filling, it keeps well in the fridge for 3 days or freezes beautifully for 3 months. Once assembled, tamales reheat best in a steamer basket—cover with a damp towel to maintain moisture. The aroma alone will have your whole house smelling like a Mexican fiesta.

Step-by-step instructions for authentic tamales with red chicken chili

Here's how to build tamales with deep, smoky red chili flavor that'll impress even the most seasoned tamale eaters.

In a large pot, combine the 4 lb chicken thighs with 2 cups chicken broth, 2 whole bay leaves, 1.5 tsp salt, and 0.5 tsp black pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 45-50 minutes until the chicken is fork-tender. Remove the thighs, shred the meat, and return it to the broth.

In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the 8 cloves garlic for 1 minute until fragrant. Add the 2 tbsp ground cumin and toast for another 30 seconds until aromatic. Transfer to a food processor along with the 4 whole dried ancho chilies, 4 whole dried guajillo chilies, and pulse until finely ground.

In a separate skillet, sauté the 2 whole white onions and 4 whole Roma tomatoes (roughly chopped) until softened. Add the chili mixture and cook for 2 minutes to deepen the flavors. Stir this into the chicken broth along with 1 tbsp dried oregano. Simmer for 15 minutes until thickened. This is your rich, smoky filling—let it cool slightly before using.

In a large bowl, combine the 5 cups masa harina with 0.5 cup lard (or vegetable shortening) and 1 cup hot chicken broth from the chili filling. Mix until a thick, pliable dough forms. I like to work quickly here—add more broth 1 tablespoon at a time if needed to reach a consistency that's firm but not crumbly.

Divide the dough into 12 equal portions (about ½ cup each) and roll each into a 12-inch log, about ½-inch thick. Keep the remaining dough covered to prevent drying. The dough should be smooth and slightly tacky—if it feels too dry, add a splash more broth.

Lay out 12 pieces banana leaves (or cut 12 pieces foil to similar size). Place ½ cup of the red chicken chili filling in the center of each leaf. Fold the sides inward, then roll the masa dough log tightly around the filling, sealing the edges completely. The tamales should look like neat little packages—no gaps where steam can escape.

Arrange the tamales seam-side down in a large steamer basket lined with banana leaves or foil. Cover with a damp towel to trap steam. If using foil, poke holes in the top to allow steam to escape. The tamales are ready when the masa pulls away cleanly from the banana leaves.

Bring 2 inches of water to a boil in a large pot, then reduce to a simmer. Place the steamer basket inside and cover tightly. Steam for 60-75 minutes until the masa is firm and the filling is heated through. You'll know they're done when the masa no longer feels doughy when pressed gently.

Let the tamales rest for 10 minutes before serving. The residual heat will finish cooking them perfectly. Serve with extra chili sauce on the side—these tamales pack serious flavor in every bite, with tender chicken, smoky chilies, and that perfect masa texture.

Essential equipment for this recipe

Steamer Basket Essentials

You'll need a large steamer basket that fits snugly in your pot—12-14 inches wide works perfectly for 12 tamales. I recommend a stainless steel basket from Williams Sonoma or Le Creuset for durability and even heat distribution.

If your basket is too small, use two smaller ones stacked vertically with a wire rack in between to prevent contact. The key is maintaining even steam circulation—never overcrowd the basket, or your tamales will cook unevenly. 🌿

Banana Leaf Substitutes

While banana leaves add authentic aroma, heavy-duty aluminum foil works in a pinch. Cut 12 large squares (about 12x12 inches) and lightly grease with oil to prevent sticking.

For extra flavor, toast the foil in a dry skillet for 30 seconds before using—it mimics the smoky notes of real leaves. Store-bought banana leaves (found in Latin markets or online) are pre-steamed and ready to use, but avoid pre-cut packages—they often contain preservatives that can alter taste. ✨

Masa Harina Mixer

A stand mixer with a dough hook attachment (like the KitchenAid 5-Qt) saves time when combining 5 cups masa harina with lard and broth. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes to avoid creating gluten, which makes the dough tough.

For smaller batches, a wooden spoon works fine—just mix vigorously for 3-4 minutes until fully incorporated. The dough should hold together when pressed but still feel slightly crumbly before adding more broth. 💫

Chili Grinder Tools

For grinding dried chilies, a high-powered food processor (like the Ninja BN601) is essential—it handles tough skins better than blenders. If you don’t have one, a mortar and pestle works for small batches, but requires 10-15 minutes of manual grinding.

For even texture, pulse the chilies in 1-second bursts until you reach a fine powder. Avoid pre-ground chili powders—they lack the fresh, vibrant flavor of freshly ground chilies. 🌶️

Steaming Pot Setup

Use a deep, heavy-bottomed pot (like a Dutch oven) to prevent boiling over during steaming. Fill with 2 inches of water and bring to a gentle simmer—never a rolling boil, or your tamales will steam too quickly and turn gummy.

Place a trivet or rack at the bottom of the steamer basket to elevate it 1 inch above the waterline for even heat distribution. A digital thermometer (like the Thermoworks Smoke) ensures your water stays at 180-190°F—the ideal temperature for perfect tamales. 🔥

Dough Rolling Tools

A rolling pin with a smooth, non-stick surface (like the OXO Good Grips) prevents dough from sticking. For even thickness, roll each ½-inch log to exactly ½-inch diameter—use a measuring tape to check.

If your dough cracks while rolling, lightly dampen your hands with warm water and smooth it out. For extra precision, wrap the dough around a clean wooden spoon before rolling to create a perfect cylinder shape. 💪

Frequently asked questions